Lake Superior Kayak Circumnavigation 2013
After 1059.6 miles and 89 days Lindsey reached the place where Luke and her began the trip on June 24th-Knife River, Minnesota. Below are the journal entries and pictures of each "section" of the trip. Of the 1060miles, Luke and I were able to paddle 450 together.
Why "Sections"? I split the trip into eight distinct sections based on times when Luke and I paddled together, or when I paddled solo! Also, as many folks along the shore asked- "is the rest of the lake like this?" and the answer is yes and no. No, there is incredible variation in terms of topography, history, population density, rock formations, etc. all along the lake. And Yes, the lake is beautiful beyond words and can turn into a churning mess anywhere on the lake! Finally, each different section of the trip presented different challenges and experiences. Some highlights are each time Lindsey paddled solo, large open water crossings, powerful storms, Lindsey experiencing a very challenging illness, meeting up with old friends and making new friends along the way and other stories told below in our daily descriptions.
I (Lindsey) will still update the blog but will be transitioning to beginning writing a book on my experiences doing what maybe I will call "living life out on the loose!" Click through the pictures to see captions and please feel free to send me an email with any ideas, feedback, questions or whatever it may be! Also, Lindsey and/or Luke are always excited to share our stories to any audience- adult or youth, science or adventure, Lake Superior or the Canadian Waters Research Expedition.
Why "Sections"? I split the trip into eight distinct sections based on times when Luke and I paddled together, or when I paddled solo! Also, as many folks along the shore asked- "is the rest of the lake like this?" and the answer is yes and no. No, there is incredible variation in terms of topography, history, population density, rock formations, etc. all along the lake. And Yes, the lake is beautiful beyond words and can turn into a churning mess anywhere on the lake! Finally, each different section of the trip presented different challenges and experiences. Some highlights are each time Lindsey paddled solo, large open water crossings, powerful storms, Lindsey experiencing a very challenging illness, meeting up with old friends and making new friends along the way and other stories told below in our daily descriptions.
I (Lindsey) will still update the blog but will be transitioning to beginning writing a book on my experiences doing what maybe I will call "living life out on the loose!" Click through the pictures to see captions and please feel free to send me an email with any ideas, feedback, questions or whatever it may be! Also, Lindsey and/or Luke are always excited to share our stories to any audience- adult or youth, science or adventure, Lake Superior or the Canadian Waters Research Expedition.
Gallery of Pictures for Part one of the Trip: June 24th start at Knife River to July 4th in Grand Marais, Minnesota
Part 1: Start at Knife River- Grand Marais, MN
12 Days, 95.4 miles
During this section we took lots of time to play it safe, as well as time to tour the beautiful parks, waterfalls and hiking trails of the North Shore of Minnesota. One major reason for doing the trip was to learn and connect to our Minnesota roots- thus we made time to tour the scenery and towns along the way!
Day 1 June 24th Miles 0, Minneapolis MN- Knife River “Drop Off at Campsite in Evening to Organize Gear”
Day 2 June 25th Miles 8.6, Knife River, MN- Two Harbors “Leave Knife River Campground and Begin- First Day on the Lake”
Day 3 June 26th Miles 0 “Sick/Weather Day in Two Harbors Campground”
Day 4 June 27th Miles 13.8 Two Harbors- Gooseberry Falls State Park “First Swim, Thunderstorm, Real Paddling Day and LOVE Touring Gooseberry!”
Day 5 June 28th Miles 0 “Rain/Wind/Fog Bound for an Awesome Day in Gooseberry Park Shelter. Journal, call, dry gear, yoga, share campfire with lovely folks inside shelter!”
Day 6 June 29th Miles 15.3 Gooseberry Falls State Park- North Shore Mining Access “Beautiful Day Paddling over 1905 Shipwreck and past Split Rock Lighthouse!”
Day 7 June 30th Miles 5.1 North Shore Mining Access- Crystal Bay “Amazing Sea Caves, Palisade Head, Tailwind past Tettegouche and Stay in Lutsen with Paul and Laurie!”
Day 8 July 1st Miles 11.4 Total 54.2 Crystal Bay- Pork Bay “Meet Bryan Hansel on the water, First Day of Headwinds and Rollers”
Day 9 July 2nd Miles 11.6 Total 65.8 Pork Bay- Temperance River State Park “Beautiful Day on the water, hike Temperance River Gorge and are blown away. Loving Touring Our Minnesota”
Day 10 July 3rd Miles 10.1 Total 75.9 Temperance River State Park- Lutsen Resort “Sunny ‘Frying Pan Calm’ day and beers with a soon to be great friend and fellow circumnavigator Lucas Will”
Day 11 July 4th Miles 19.5 Total 95.4 Lutsen Resort- Grand Marais, MN “Biggest Day and a Very Happy Fourth of July in Grand Marais!”
Day 12 July 5th Day Off Enjoying Grand Marais: Eat, eat and sleep. Walk through beautiful harbor and shops of the town!
12 Days, 95.4 miles
During this section we took lots of time to play it safe, as well as time to tour the beautiful parks, waterfalls and hiking trails of the North Shore of Minnesota. One major reason for doing the trip was to learn and connect to our Minnesota roots- thus we made time to tour the scenery and towns along the way!
Day 1 June 24th Miles 0, Minneapolis MN- Knife River “Drop Off at Campsite in Evening to Organize Gear”
Day 2 June 25th Miles 8.6, Knife River, MN- Two Harbors “Leave Knife River Campground and Begin- First Day on the Lake”
Day 3 June 26th Miles 0 “Sick/Weather Day in Two Harbors Campground”
Day 4 June 27th Miles 13.8 Two Harbors- Gooseberry Falls State Park “First Swim, Thunderstorm, Real Paddling Day and LOVE Touring Gooseberry!”
Day 5 June 28th Miles 0 “Rain/Wind/Fog Bound for an Awesome Day in Gooseberry Park Shelter. Journal, call, dry gear, yoga, share campfire with lovely folks inside shelter!”
Day 6 June 29th Miles 15.3 Gooseberry Falls State Park- North Shore Mining Access “Beautiful Day Paddling over 1905 Shipwreck and past Split Rock Lighthouse!”
Day 7 June 30th Miles 5.1 North Shore Mining Access- Crystal Bay “Amazing Sea Caves, Palisade Head, Tailwind past Tettegouche and Stay in Lutsen with Paul and Laurie!”
Day 8 July 1st Miles 11.4 Total 54.2 Crystal Bay- Pork Bay “Meet Bryan Hansel on the water, First Day of Headwinds and Rollers”
Day 9 July 2nd Miles 11.6 Total 65.8 Pork Bay- Temperance River State Park “Beautiful Day on the water, hike Temperance River Gorge and are blown away. Loving Touring Our Minnesota”
Day 10 July 3rd Miles 10.1 Total 75.9 Temperance River State Park- Lutsen Resort “Sunny ‘Frying Pan Calm’ day and beers with a soon to be great friend and fellow circumnavigator Lucas Will”
Day 11 July 4th Miles 19.5 Total 95.4 Lutsen Resort- Grand Marais, MN “Biggest Day and a Very Happy Fourth of July in Grand Marais!”
Day 12 July 5th Day Off Enjoying Grand Marais: Eat, eat and sleep. Walk through beautiful harbor and shops of the town!
Part 2: Week off in Grand Marais, MN. Luke Returns home for week of work while I enjoy the incredible company of Friends in Grand Marais, MN. (9 Days, 3Miles)
Day 13 July 6th Miles 3 Total 98.4 Grand Marais- Lucas Will and Natalie’s House “Relaxing Morning, meet Bryan Hansel who kindly helps us with boat repair ideas, Epic Explorer Amy Freeman and arrive at my new home for the week- meet new friends Natalie and Tischer!”
Day 14 July 7th Miles of Beautiful Hiking and Conversation on the Superior Hiking Trail with Natalie and T- “Begin Wonderful Week at Lucas and Natalie’s while waiting for Luke as he goes to WI for work trip”
Day 15 July 8th Day 3 at Lucas + Natalie’s: Me time for postcards, phone calls, laundry, constantly organizing gear, read, walk Tischer and great evening hanging out and talking, sharing laughing!
Day 16 July 9th Day 4 at Lucas + Natalie’s: Natalie and I’s Day Together- Run errands, Yoga, Cook amazing food and forge a friendship! Followed by evening with Lucas and Matt of Great Food, Homemade Drinks and Belly Laughs. Luke says “It Sounds Like Your Dream Day”
Day 17 July 10th Day 5 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Boat Mending in the morning, Adventure Biking for Ice Cream in the Afternoon! Talk to mom as she leaves our childhood home on the last night and my parents move to a new home and place in their journey together.”
Day 18 July 11th Day 6 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Morning of ME time, Afternoon Conversing and Stand Up Paddle Boarding the Grand Marais Harbor with Lucas, Evening meeting new friends and fellow farmer/foodies Erin, Trevor and their beautiful son Esa”
Day 19 July 12th Day 7 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Hit my wall- feel its time to move, to get back on the Lake. Organize Gear, 6 mile run, bed early”
Day 20 July 13th Day 8 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Parents and Luke arrive- tour Grand Marais Art Fair and see all that the Lake inspires!”
Day 21 July 14th Day 9 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Last Day at Lucas and Natalie’s- goodbye to parents, organize gear and great big hugs and kind words with our new dear friends Lucas and Natalie!”
Day 14 July 7th Miles of Beautiful Hiking and Conversation on the Superior Hiking Trail with Natalie and T- “Begin Wonderful Week at Lucas and Natalie’s while waiting for Luke as he goes to WI for work trip”
Day 15 July 8th Day 3 at Lucas + Natalie’s: Me time for postcards, phone calls, laundry, constantly organizing gear, read, walk Tischer and great evening hanging out and talking, sharing laughing!
Day 16 July 9th Day 4 at Lucas + Natalie’s: Natalie and I’s Day Together- Run errands, Yoga, Cook amazing food and forge a friendship! Followed by evening with Lucas and Matt of Great Food, Homemade Drinks and Belly Laughs. Luke says “It Sounds Like Your Dream Day”
Day 17 July 10th Day 5 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Boat Mending in the morning, Adventure Biking for Ice Cream in the Afternoon! Talk to mom as she leaves our childhood home on the last night and my parents move to a new home and place in their journey together.”
Day 18 July 11th Day 6 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Morning of ME time, Afternoon Conversing and Stand Up Paddle Boarding the Grand Marais Harbor with Lucas, Evening meeting new friends and fellow farmer/foodies Erin, Trevor and their beautiful son Esa”
Day 19 July 12th Day 7 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Hit my wall- feel its time to move, to get back on the Lake. Organize Gear, 6 mile run, bed early”
Day 20 July 13th Day 8 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Parents and Luke arrive- tour Grand Marais Art Fair and see all that the Lake inspires!”
Day 21 July 14th Day 9 at Lucas + Natalie’s “Last Day at Lucas and Natalie’s- goodbye to parents, organize gear and great big hugs and kind words with our new dear friends Lucas and Natalie!”
Part 3: Grand Marais, MN- Thunder Bay, Ontario CANADA
Goodbye after one night with Parents. Luke and I leave our friends and Grand Marais Behind and Set Back out on the Lake! (9 Days, 85.5 Miles)
Day 22 July 15th Miles 9.4 Total 108.8 Lucas + Natalie’s –Little Brule River “Lucas Sends us back on our way- calm, foggy lake clears to a Beautiful Sunset Campsite! Catch my stride in paddling and finally feel comfortable in my Kayak”
Day 23 July 16th Miles 23 Total 131.8 Little Brule River- Grand Portage Island “Some Big Ups and Downs Today, Look out at Grand Portage and recall doing it last summer with 7 other wonderful Powerful Girl Scout Guides!”
Day 24 July 17th Miles 16.8 Total 148.6 Grand Portage Island- Pigeon Bay, CANADA “Incredible Scenery of Mount Josephine, Isle Royale in the Distance, Pigeon Point Customs by kayak is interesting and spend first night in Canada!”
Day 25 July 18th Miles 1.5 Total 150.1 Pigeon Bay- Finger Point “Rain, Big Thunderstorm and an huddle afternoon near an Airstream in the woods!”
Day 26 July 19th Miles 15.3 Total 165.4 Finger Point- Mink Point “Scenery Continues to surpass words- solitude, steep topography, huge views. I would recommend paddling this section to anyone!”
Day 27 July 20th Miles 19.5 Total 184.9 Mink Point- Thundery Bay, Ontario “Lateral Thinking Puzzles, Changing Winds and Reunite and Celebrate with dear friend Emmalee Agnew in Thunder Bay!”
Day 28 July 21st Miles 0 “Day off logisticizing and enjoying TBay”
Day 29 July 22nd Miles 0 “Logistical Speedbumb averted with help of Emmalee- drop Luke in Duluth for work, quick visit to Natalie and Lucas’! Thanks again friends!”
Day 30 July 23rd Miles 0 “My Day to Pack and Mentally Prepare to set out Solo tomorrow. Exciting and a bit Nerve-wracking. Thankful for support of friends Natalie, Lucas, Emmalee and Jon who said ‘you can do it, you can go solo, just be humble and make good choices’. ”
Part 4 Luke Returns Home for Work, I set out Solo Paddling Thunder Bay, Ontario- Marathon, Ontario
Day 31 July 24th Miles 19 Total 203.9 Thunder Bay- Caribou Island “Start my first Solo Adventure in the woods. Celebrate One Month on the Trip and over 200miles paddled.”
Day 32 July 25th Miles 17.8 Total 221.7 Caribou Island- Thunder Cape (tip of the “Sleeping Giant”) “Beautiful Paddle along the Sleeping Giant Icon of the area, camp next to extensive series of trails, watchtower and bird sanctuary. Don’t see another single soul.”
Day 33 July 26th Miles 0 “Really Crappy Weather, take time for Me on Thunder Cape. Hike, find fresh moose tracks, read and rest.”
Day 34 July 27th Miles 15 Total 236.7 Thunder Cape- Edward Island “Headwind and Learn to Sing my way across first Big open water crossing. Leave Cell Phone, weather Radio reception and last hints of civilization behind.”
Day 35 July 28th Miles 0 “Stay the Day at incredible secluded site; sleep, yoga, read + finish a whole book on the Living Great Lakes and write on why I am out here- what am I seeking?”
Day 36 July 29th Miles 33.2 Total 269.9 Edward Island- Flour Island “Incredible Weather and Mental day- biggest miles yet, crossings, and Immeasurably Beautiful Scenery.”
Day 37 July 30th Miles 16.7 Total 286.6 Flour Island- Armor Island “Headwinds all day, start to feel ill, but very proud of progress today in challenging conditions! Beaver swam right under the front of my kayak, waved to one sailboat=first interaction since Silver Islet”
Day 38 July 31st Miles 11.7 Total 298.3 Armor Island- Beetle Point “Breathtaking Clouds, Headwinds, Confused Seas, Multiple thunderstorms and finally fall ill. Enjoying Solitude, but sending thoughts to loved ones is a hobby to occupy my mind”
Day 39 August 1st Miles 21.7 Total 320 Beetle Point- Les Petits Ecrits (Little Islands) “Tailwind! Fighting Illness, Spirits High- Most amazing of Lighthouses, Find Piece of Old Huge Shipwreck on Island, Biggest Waves and Scariest Moment as Traverse Schreiber Channel-fastest speed yet 6.6mph. Make Camp at “Golden Hour” of Sunset time and in tent beat, accomplished, thankful and feeling more ill.”
Day 40 August 2nd Miles 21.3 Total 341.3 Les Petits Ecrits Island Prairie Cove “Dodged the Bullet in terms of many thunderstorms passing near enough to see but not close enough to stop me. Think I may have Giardia, very ill and can barely eat. Sing speedgrass to myself frequently if happy, tired, scared, overjoyed or any other reason to sing.”
Day 41 August 3rd Miles 14.9 Total 356.2 Prairie Cove- Detention Island “Pretty Sick, weak, rough morning but proud that I made it on water. Decide to ride tailwind across bay for biggest crossing yet- 6ish miles with midway island hop. Camp just across Bay from goal of Marathon, On tomorrow”
Day 42 August 4th Miles 11.5 Total 367.7 Detention Island- City of Marathon, On- Base Camp on Ypres Point “Paddle into Marathon- first face to face human interaction in 9 or 11 days (waved and said hi to a passing boat). Meet incredibly kind and inspiration group of 4 women and find out Luke will not be arriving today- will need to wait till the 7th. Find secluded area and set up camp for a few days. Awesome Sunset, contemplate incredible fears about being solo female near a town and decide to trust others and let it go.”
Day 43 August 5th Miles 0 Base Camp at Ypres Point “How many people ever find themselves with 3 days alone in the woods to do whatever they please? Read, journal, swim, search for wild edibles and actually feel better today.”
Day 44 August 6th Miles 0 Base Camp at Ypres Point “Read Sigurd Olson, Nap, Eat, Balance Chakras with Yoga, Berry Pick and Skinny Dip. Write my heart out!”
Day 45 August 7th Miles 5ish (GPS died, estimated) Total 372.7“Last Day Waiting for Luke to return- incredible berry picking, hiking, swimming, wait at boat launch for hours with no way to contact him. Sleep out under stars on Skin Island- Luke arrives in middle of the night.”
Part 5: Luke and I Reunite, Paddle Marathon, On- Whitefish Point, Michigan, USA
Day 46 August 8th Miles 1 Camp on Skin Island across from Marathon “Reunite with Luke, spend the day organizing gear and preparing to set out again together! Trip into Marathon so I can Eat everything in site that isn’t ‘our food’.”
Day 47 August 9th Miles 2.3 Total 374.6 “Luke and I try to head out, experience a HUGE ‘holy shit’ wave at edge of harbor and turn back, remake camp. Wind bound, small craft warning, great experiencing our limit.”
Day 48 August 10th Miles 4.2 Total 376.9 Marathon- Just past Marathon “I fall very ill again, after morning visit to hospital decide to push on without treatment. Gladly finally leave Marathon and go right into Formidable Headwind. Pull off for break and decide to stay put, watch a beautiful sunset and bed early to rest.”
Day 49 August 11th Miles 13.2 Total 390.1 Enter the Pukaskwa (puck-a-saw) “Headwinds and very ill. Mentally, physically and emotionally challenging day for Luke and I. First day I couldn’t enjoy the scenery for the challenges. The bottom reminds you to appreciate the top!”
Day 50 August 12th Miles 19.7 Total 409.8 Near Playter Harbor- Near One Lake Island “Realize and Appreciate the Beauty of the Pukaskwa with a tailwind. Very upset stomach, first time kayaking through the sunset, land on placid sandy beach laden with wild raspberries!”
Day 51 August 13th Miles 25.6 Total 435.4 Near One Lake Island- Edge of the Pukaskwa Provincial Park “Raspberry Pancakes for Breakfast, meet hikers and kayakers in morning. Luke and I work on conflicts in our relationship. Tailwind with 6ft+ waves. Heartbreakingly beautiful wide open space, breathtaking topography and colorful, rocky, rugged scenery. Make camp as gorgeous sunset sets cliffs on fire with color. Beat and accomplished!”
Day 52 August 14th Miles 24.0 Total 459.4 Pukaskwa River- The Flats “Epic day of tailwinds Again! Beginning to starve because of stomach illness, loss of appetite, dream, obsess about food but unable to consume anything we have. Luke is a champ, ride the wind, eat enough wild berries to keep trucking, really great conversations, revel in the scenery and solitude- not a speck of humanity for two days in a row.”
Day 53 August 15th Miles 18.0 Total 477.4 The Flats- Near Little Bear River “Fourth Day in a row of Tailwinds finally turns into headwind in afternoon. Paddle around Point Isocar and view rips wide open- can see all the way to Michipicoten Peninsula, steep topography and glittering water. Discuss and reflect on how we’ve changed individually since doing the 1500mile canoe trip (Canadian Waters Expedition) in 2010. I struggle to adjust after being solo, still ill and can barely eat.”
Day 54 August 16th Miles 17.8 Total 495.2 Near Little Bear River- Lake Superior Provincial Park/ Brule Harbor “Complete our biggest crossing yet 7.7miles of open water. Camp in designated site and see canoe group across the bay. Too tired to eat, bed before sunset.”
Day 55 August 17th Miles 9.2 Total 504.4 Brule Harbor- Cap Chailon “Headwinds and very ill, hit rock bottom today physically. But Celebrate Reaching Five Hundred Miles in Old Woman Bay- One of my Absolute Favorite Places Of the Whole Trip. Camp in Largest Raspberry Patch I have seen in my life and try to eat myself back to health.”
Day 56 August 18th Miles 0 Finally wind bound. “We have been pushing hard knowing a day would come that we would be stuck and feel like we have earned it. I spend 4 hours straight doing one of my absolute favorite things in the world- berry picking. Raspberries, serviceberries, blueberries, bog bilberries, gooseberries/ currants, fireweed, rose hips and a glowing red sunset. Eat liters of berries but obsess over needing fat, protein and calories- dream of buffets, grocery stores, farm life. Still ill but know we are miles from next town and not turning back. Luke emotionally drained from worrying about my starving due to illness.”
Day 57 August 19th Miles 12.2 Total 516.6 Cap Chailon- Cape Gargantua “Windy morning, sleep in and Berry Pick 3 hours straight. Great afternoon paddle as wind dies, cliffs, ridges, open space and find a designated campsite just in time for thunderstorm. Hop in tent early after snack of berries!”
Day 58 August 20th Miles 18.5 Total 535.1 Cape Gargantua- Katherine Cove “Sunny, breezy morning. Water FINALLY Warm enough to swim comfortably! Camp on public beach and back near road after the longest and wildest stretch of the entire trip. Fell in love with Canada again- so much open wild and untamed, protected beauty. Starting to feel better, but so hungry and unable to eat much.”
Day 59 August 21st Miles 6.2 Total 541.1 Katherine Cove-Near Sinclair Cove (Still Lake Superior Provincial Park, Ontario) “First surf launch into Blustery Headwind and impending Tstorms stop us right after lunch at an incredible and unexpected designated campsite. RECORD amount of berries- I spend hours picking blueberries, bog bilberries, huckleberries, Serviceberries, Wintergreen Tea Berries, Pin or “Fire” Cherries… And one of those sunsets over rugged country turned every color of glimmering evening beautiful. Dreamt of all the people I miss- my two brothers especially.”
Day 60 August 22nd Miles 19.8 Total 561.1 Berry Campsite near Sinclair Cove- Alona Bay “Calm and sunny morning, meet couple driving circle tour round lake out in kayaks, reverently enjoy beautiful pictographs. Long swim in crystal clear water at lunch and headwind in afternoon takes it out of us. Watch the sun slide past the edge of the Earth and feel wealthy in so much, so many real ways.”
Day 61 August 23rd Miles 16.3 Total 577.4 Alona Bay- Whiskey Point “Wash hair for first time in a month on a sunny, calm afternoon. First full day without any neoprene= LIBERATING! Debate, line ourselves up for BIG crossing tomorrow morning. Thimbleberries for dinner!”
Day 47 August 9th Miles 2.3 Total 374.6 “Luke and I try to head out, experience a HUGE ‘holy shit’ wave at edge of harbor and turn back, remake camp. Wind bound, small craft warning, great experiencing our limit.”
Day 48 August 10th Miles 4.2 Total 376.9 Marathon- Just past Marathon “I fall very ill again, after morning visit to hospital decide to push on without treatment. Gladly finally leave Marathon and go right into Formidable Headwind. Pull off for break and decide to stay put, watch a beautiful sunset and bed early to rest.”
Day 49 August 11th Miles 13.2 Total 390.1 Enter the Pukaskwa (puck-a-saw) “Headwinds and very ill. Mentally, physically and emotionally challenging day for Luke and I. First day I couldn’t enjoy the scenery for the challenges. The bottom reminds you to appreciate the top!”
Day 50 August 12th Miles 19.7 Total 409.8 Near Playter Harbor- Near One Lake Island “Realize and Appreciate the Beauty of the Pukaskwa with a tailwind. Very upset stomach, first time kayaking through the sunset, land on placid sandy beach laden with wild raspberries!”
Day 51 August 13th Miles 25.6 Total 435.4 Near One Lake Island- Edge of the Pukaskwa Provincial Park “Raspberry Pancakes for Breakfast, meet hikers and kayakers in morning. Luke and I work on conflicts in our relationship. Tailwind with 6ft+ waves. Heartbreakingly beautiful wide open space, breathtaking topography and colorful, rocky, rugged scenery. Make camp as gorgeous sunset sets cliffs on fire with color. Beat and accomplished!”
Day 52 August 14th Miles 24.0 Total 459.4 Pukaskwa River- The Flats “Epic day of tailwinds Again! Beginning to starve because of stomach illness, loss of appetite, dream, obsess about food but unable to consume anything we have. Luke is a champ, ride the wind, eat enough wild berries to keep trucking, really great conversations, revel in the scenery and solitude- not a speck of humanity for two days in a row.”
Day 53 August 15th Miles 18.0 Total 477.4 The Flats- Near Little Bear River “Fourth Day in a row of Tailwinds finally turns into headwind in afternoon. Paddle around Point Isocar and view rips wide open- can see all the way to Michipicoten Peninsula, steep topography and glittering water. Discuss and reflect on how we’ve changed individually since doing the 1500mile canoe trip (Canadian Waters Expedition) in 2010. I struggle to adjust after being solo, still ill and can barely eat.”
Day 54 August 16th Miles 17.8 Total 495.2 Near Little Bear River- Lake Superior Provincial Park/ Brule Harbor “Complete our biggest crossing yet 7.7miles of open water. Camp in designated site and see canoe group across the bay. Too tired to eat, bed before sunset.”
Day 55 August 17th Miles 9.2 Total 504.4 Brule Harbor- Cap Chailon “Headwinds and very ill, hit rock bottom today physically. But Celebrate Reaching Five Hundred Miles in Old Woman Bay- One of my Absolute Favorite Places Of the Whole Trip. Camp in Largest Raspberry Patch I have seen in my life and try to eat myself back to health.”
Day 56 August 18th Miles 0 Finally wind bound. “We have been pushing hard knowing a day would come that we would be stuck and feel like we have earned it. I spend 4 hours straight doing one of my absolute favorite things in the world- berry picking. Raspberries, serviceberries, blueberries, bog bilberries, gooseberries/ currants, fireweed, rose hips and a glowing red sunset. Eat liters of berries but obsess over needing fat, protein and calories- dream of buffets, grocery stores, farm life. Still ill but know we are miles from next town and not turning back. Luke emotionally drained from worrying about my starving due to illness.”
Day 57 August 19th Miles 12.2 Total 516.6 Cap Chailon- Cape Gargantua “Windy morning, sleep in and Berry Pick 3 hours straight. Great afternoon paddle as wind dies, cliffs, ridges, open space and find a designated campsite just in time for thunderstorm. Hop in tent early after snack of berries!”
Day 58 August 20th Miles 18.5 Total 535.1 Cape Gargantua- Katherine Cove “Sunny, breezy morning. Water FINALLY Warm enough to swim comfortably! Camp on public beach and back near road after the longest and wildest stretch of the entire trip. Fell in love with Canada again- so much open wild and untamed, protected beauty. Starting to feel better, but so hungry and unable to eat much.”
Day 59 August 21st Miles 6.2 Total 541.1 Katherine Cove-Near Sinclair Cove (Still Lake Superior Provincial Park, Ontario) “First surf launch into Blustery Headwind and impending Tstorms stop us right after lunch at an incredible and unexpected designated campsite. RECORD amount of berries- I spend hours picking blueberries, bog bilberries, huckleberries, Serviceberries, Wintergreen Tea Berries, Pin or “Fire” Cherries… And one of those sunsets over rugged country turned every color of glimmering evening beautiful. Dreamt of all the people I miss- my two brothers especially.”
Day 60 August 22nd Miles 19.8 Total 561.1 Berry Campsite near Sinclair Cove- Alona Bay “Calm and sunny morning, meet couple driving circle tour round lake out in kayaks, reverently enjoy beautiful pictographs. Long swim in crystal clear water at lunch and headwind in afternoon takes it out of us. Watch the sun slide past the edge of the Earth and feel wealthy in so much, so many real ways.”
Day 61 August 23rd Miles 16.3 Total 577.4 Alona Bay- Whiskey Point “Wash hair for first time in a month on a sunny, calm afternoon. First full day without any neoprene= LIBERATING! Debate, line ourselves up for BIG crossing tomorrow morning. Thimbleberries for dinner!”
Part 6: Big Crossing to Whitefish Point, USA and paddle to Grand Marais, MI for Groceries and so Luke can Return home early for Work
Day 62 August 24th Miles 18.5 Total 595.9 Whiskey Point, Ontario CA- Whitefish Point, Michigan, USA “BIG Water Crossing: 16.5miles across the bay in a headwind, 8.5 hours straight in kayak. Huge Emotional, physical challenge. Hit 2 month mark today. Bittersweet- all of a sudden we are done with CA and the landscape, population density, weather, logistical issues all change! Can’t believe we did the crossing.”
Day 63 August 25th Miles 9.9 Total 605.8 Whitefish Point- past Vermillion Point “Morning of Tstorms, walk maritime exhibit and raid vending machine. Still very very hungry, no real food around so eat cookies for three meals. Paddle afternoon to escape black flies and rock pickers. Learn Luke needs to return home this weekend, 14days earlier then expected. No question in my mind I will continue the trip.”
Day 64 August 26th Miles 12.9 Total 617.7 Past Vermillion Point- Little Lake “Live through the most incredible night of Thunderstorms we have ever experienced. Thankful to be here still after frying night. Make it on water midday to headwinds. Stop at Crisp Point Lighthouse to try to find food. Kind couple gives me baggie of pretzels and cookies which I ration to last next four meals. Meet awesome old timers who tell us last nights storm “worst they had ever seen.”
Day 65 August 27th Miles 17.3 Total 634.4 Little Lake-Blind Sucker River “FINALLY Get Food from Kind new Friends Tom and Laurie on beach near Deer Park, MI. I eat My heart out- eggs, meat, smoked trout, juice, almonds, heirloom tomatoes, crackers, ginger snaps, fruit, fat, protein, calories. Time of great hunger ends with incredible lesson in generosity of strangers. And they were awesome people to get to know! Thank you from the Bottom of my Heart. Luke accidentally breaks off rudder, camp in recent forest fire and fog.”
Day 66 August 28th Miles 13.3 Total 647.7 Blind Sucker River- Grand Marais, Michigan “Headwinds but good food and sunshine. Finally reach Grand Marais-aka GROCERY store I have been dreaming of. Meet new friends Chet, Ann, Bill and Sue and decide to spend the evening chatting, drinking a local growler, eating their pizza and getting so much love, laughter and inspiration from our four new wonderful friends!”
Day 67 August 29th Miles 0 Day off in Grand Marais, MI. “More laughter and sharing with our new friends in the morning. Spend afternoon eating my heart out- best pizza and drink 60 ounces worth of Mackinaw Fudge Malts. Look at maps and realize- luke going home tomorrow and I have 440miles to go. Camp in great rustic site in municipal campground.”
Day 68 August 30th Miles 0 Spend Night in Munising Motel with Luke’s Mother, Sister and Grandmother! Fun out to eat, I pack and ready my gear to continue alone.
Day 63 August 25th Miles 9.9 Total 605.8 Whitefish Point- past Vermillion Point “Morning of Tstorms, walk maritime exhibit and raid vending machine. Still very very hungry, no real food around so eat cookies for three meals. Paddle afternoon to escape black flies and rock pickers. Learn Luke needs to return home this weekend, 14days earlier then expected. No question in my mind I will continue the trip.”
Day 64 August 26th Miles 12.9 Total 617.7 Past Vermillion Point- Little Lake “Live through the most incredible night of Thunderstorms we have ever experienced. Thankful to be here still after frying night. Make it on water midday to headwinds. Stop at Crisp Point Lighthouse to try to find food. Kind couple gives me baggie of pretzels and cookies which I ration to last next four meals. Meet awesome old timers who tell us last nights storm “worst they had ever seen.”
Day 65 August 27th Miles 17.3 Total 634.4 Little Lake-Blind Sucker River “FINALLY Get Food from Kind new Friends Tom and Laurie on beach near Deer Park, MI. I eat My heart out- eggs, meat, smoked trout, juice, almonds, heirloom tomatoes, crackers, ginger snaps, fruit, fat, protein, calories. Time of great hunger ends with incredible lesson in generosity of strangers. And they were awesome people to get to know! Thank you from the Bottom of my Heart. Luke accidentally breaks off rudder, camp in recent forest fire and fog.”
Day 66 August 28th Miles 13.3 Total 647.7 Blind Sucker River- Grand Marais, Michigan “Headwinds but good food and sunshine. Finally reach Grand Marais-aka GROCERY store I have been dreaming of. Meet new friends Chet, Ann, Bill and Sue and decide to spend the evening chatting, drinking a local growler, eating their pizza and getting so much love, laughter and inspiration from our four new wonderful friends!”
Day 67 August 29th Miles 0 Day off in Grand Marais, MI. “More laughter and sharing with our new friends in the morning. Spend afternoon eating my heart out- best pizza and drink 60 ounces worth of Mackinaw Fudge Malts. Look at maps and realize- luke going home tomorrow and I have 440miles to go. Camp in great rustic site in municipal campground.”
Day 68 August 30th Miles 0 Spend Night in Munising Motel with Luke’s Mother, Sister and Grandmother! Fun out to eat, I pack and ready my gear to continue alone.
Part 7 Grand Marais, Mi- Houghton, My Solo Homestretch where I meet a million Kind folks whose support carries me through the toughest of the trip!
Day 69 August 31st Miles 23.7 Total 671.4 Grand Marais, Mi- Pictured Rocks National Shoreline (Coves Campsite 5) “Luke and family drop me off to begin SOLO Round 2. Determined but intimidated by miles left, want to try to make it by September 21st for my Mother’s 50th Birthday but know-it will be up to the weather. Meet friends Sharon, Cindy and Jess who take me and let me stay on their permit in a backpacking site so I dodge park ranger. Spend an awesome evening watching sunset, sharing stories and really enjoying time with these three amazing young women!”
Day 70 September 1st Miles 10.1 Total 681.5 Pictured Rocks Coves Campsite- Pictured Rocks Miner’s Beach “Thunderstorms all morning, speed paddle beautiful shoreline- Huge cliffs, sea caves, rock formations and many other park revelers! Closest to tipping ever- a reckless tourist boat wake. Huge waves stick me on miner’s beach in afternoon- get off in maybe 4ft waves and watch 30feet of beach disappear as waves grow to 10foot breakers as far as the eye can see. Cold, windy, lonely and meet kind amateur photographer David and new friends Lane, Mike, children Journey and Jaden. Kindly share their homebrew which I saved for another rainy day. Camp illegally- no permit, but know I made the safe choice and that is what matters most.”
Day 71 September 2nd Miles 0 “Wind bound on Miner’s Beach for Biggest Waves of trip. Eat, sleep and make friends! Three Great Backpackers- Luke, Shu, Matt let me hike and explore, teach some wild edibles and share great conversations. Kind and knowledgeable couple Jake and Jen offer me warm pasties in town but nervous to leave my boat on shore with huge waves! Evening I meet an Incredible Photographer Shawn, has best reaction when I answer ‘where paddlin?’ with ‘whole lake’!”
Day 72 September 3rd Miles 20.5 Total 702 Miner’s Beach-Au Train “Wake To National Park Service giving me the boot! Best Surf Launch into bigger waves then expected, hectic paddle around Miner’s Castle and cliffs into safety of Munising Bay, quick phone call home, inhale lunch and make hay while the sunshines. Hellbent on 20miles after day of being wind bound. Hop across Au Train Bay and race the sun to the Earth. Finish Crossing and decide to do something crazy- pick a cabin and ask to pitch my tent. BEST IDEA EVER: Stumble upon Incredibly Kind Couple Bob and Julie Wisniewski for an amazing night of home cooked food, home brewed beer, pie and Great Conversation! Sleep in a WONDERFUL Bed after a hot shower and feel safe with my new Yooper Parents!”
Day 73 September 4th Miles 0 Wind bound at Bob and Julie’s Paradise “Wake to wind, rain and cold, with more of the same forecasted. Very iffy. Decide to eat Bob’s delicious breakfast and wait/reassess. End up being weather bound for a really wonderful day in the warm cabin hanging out, catching up on maps, learning from Bob and Julie about homemade pies, pasties, being high school teachers, their beautiful family. Share another fabulous dinner and eat my heart out! Bed late after a great evening talking life and learning from those with more life experience than I!
Day 74 September 5th Miles 25.2 Total 727.2 Paradise-Marquette, MI “Never want to leave but it is a time- a beautiful morning for a very sad goodbye, thankful so far beyond words for the kindness and company of Bob and Julie! Paddle 18miles before lunch with a tailwind and home cooked food. Nervous coming into Marquette-where to stay? Call photographer from Day 71 and she kindly offers me a place to stay but realize we would have to transport the kayak so I ask another cabin if I can stay and meet Daryl and Ginny who take me in and share their beautiful life with me! They race kayaks and used to own a boat business before retiring! Wonderful evening and bed exhausted!
Day 75 September 6th Miles 23.8 Total 751.0 Marquette- Near Granite Point “Hearty breakfast and meaningful goodbye hugs from Daryl and Ginny and on my way with a side/ tail breeze across city of Marquette! Headwinds pick up and slow progress significantly but make Little Presque Isle for Lunch. Try to make phone calls, thunderstorm bound and nap in the rain. Then fast paced paddle through calm evening and find a total jackpot campsite as sun goes down and feel incredibly lucky. No reception, right to bed content!”
Day 76 September 7th Miles 17.2 Total 768.2 Granite Point-Salmon Trout Bay “Bit of sunshine for a beautiful morning then wind, rain and temperature drops rapidly for a much needed stop in Big Bay. Pull off too cold and wet and realize I am stuck for a while on a public beach. Pace and try to stay warm in rain as waves too big to launch comfortably roll in. Meet a whole crew of kind folks who assemble in a ma ter of minutes, load my full boat on a pickup bed and walk/shuttle a short distance to launch me from inside the breakwall! Amazing having so many kind strangers work together to get me back on the water with much love, hugs and support. Thank you again to John and Margaret Olesnavage, Sisters Esmerelde and their husbands Ted, Jeff and brother in law Randy and our truck driver Bill! Launch out of Bay into bigger waves and cliffs and sunset then I wanted to deal with, surf land on beach feeling beat!”
Day 77 September 8th Miles 28.8 Total 797.0 Salmon Trout Bay–West Side of Point Abbaye “Sunny and breezy! Dry wet gear in morning then hop into a great tailwind, pushes me past the Beautiful Huron Mountains, dicey crossing to Abbaye Peninsula and camp in an empty yard of someone’s summer cottage. Made really great miles today and excited to try for a big crossing in morning!”
Day 78 September 9th Miles 22.9 Total 819.9 West Side of Point Abbaye- Houghton “Weather perfect for an early morning 8mile solo crossing, biggest of the trip. Land in the Portage Canal of the Keweenaw Peninsula and meet John and Karen Bunker- folks visiting the area while visiting their son. They are very kind and generous in offering food, but I am in need of only miles to Houghton- to meet friends Matt and Hannah Abbotts. Matt was instrumental in helping me to plan this trip, as he and Hannah circumnavigated the Lake in 2009! So they know how to treat a wandering soul right- beer, amazing food by Chef Hannah and stories till late in the stormy night!”
Part 8: From Houghton, Mi- Completing the circumnavigation at Knife River on September 20th. The last ten days of really pushing hard to make it home for my mom’s 50th Birthday!
Day 70 September 1st Miles 10.1 Total 681.5 Pictured Rocks Coves Campsite- Pictured Rocks Miner’s Beach “Thunderstorms all morning, speed paddle beautiful shoreline- Huge cliffs, sea caves, rock formations and many other park revelers! Closest to tipping ever- a reckless tourist boat wake. Huge waves stick me on miner’s beach in afternoon- get off in maybe 4ft waves and watch 30feet of beach disappear as waves grow to 10foot breakers as far as the eye can see. Cold, windy, lonely and meet kind amateur photographer David and new friends Lane, Mike, children Journey and Jaden. Kindly share their homebrew which I saved for another rainy day. Camp illegally- no permit, but know I made the safe choice and that is what matters most.”
Day 71 September 2nd Miles 0 “Wind bound on Miner’s Beach for Biggest Waves of trip. Eat, sleep and make friends! Three Great Backpackers- Luke, Shu, Matt let me hike and explore, teach some wild edibles and share great conversations. Kind and knowledgeable couple Jake and Jen offer me warm pasties in town but nervous to leave my boat on shore with huge waves! Evening I meet an Incredible Photographer Shawn, has best reaction when I answer ‘where paddlin?’ with ‘whole lake’!”
Day 72 September 3rd Miles 20.5 Total 702 Miner’s Beach-Au Train “Wake To National Park Service giving me the boot! Best Surf Launch into bigger waves then expected, hectic paddle around Miner’s Castle and cliffs into safety of Munising Bay, quick phone call home, inhale lunch and make hay while the sunshines. Hellbent on 20miles after day of being wind bound. Hop across Au Train Bay and race the sun to the Earth. Finish Crossing and decide to do something crazy- pick a cabin and ask to pitch my tent. BEST IDEA EVER: Stumble upon Incredibly Kind Couple Bob and Julie Wisniewski for an amazing night of home cooked food, home brewed beer, pie and Great Conversation! Sleep in a WONDERFUL Bed after a hot shower and feel safe with my new Yooper Parents!”
Day 73 September 4th Miles 0 Wind bound at Bob and Julie’s Paradise “Wake to wind, rain and cold, with more of the same forecasted. Very iffy. Decide to eat Bob’s delicious breakfast and wait/reassess. End up being weather bound for a really wonderful day in the warm cabin hanging out, catching up on maps, learning from Bob and Julie about homemade pies, pasties, being high school teachers, their beautiful family. Share another fabulous dinner and eat my heart out! Bed late after a great evening talking life and learning from those with more life experience than I!
Day 74 September 5th Miles 25.2 Total 727.2 Paradise-Marquette, MI “Never want to leave but it is a time- a beautiful morning for a very sad goodbye, thankful so far beyond words for the kindness and company of Bob and Julie! Paddle 18miles before lunch with a tailwind and home cooked food. Nervous coming into Marquette-where to stay? Call photographer from Day 71 and she kindly offers me a place to stay but realize we would have to transport the kayak so I ask another cabin if I can stay and meet Daryl and Ginny who take me in and share their beautiful life with me! They race kayaks and used to own a boat business before retiring! Wonderful evening and bed exhausted!
Day 75 September 6th Miles 23.8 Total 751.0 Marquette- Near Granite Point “Hearty breakfast and meaningful goodbye hugs from Daryl and Ginny and on my way with a side/ tail breeze across city of Marquette! Headwinds pick up and slow progress significantly but make Little Presque Isle for Lunch. Try to make phone calls, thunderstorm bound and nap in the rain. Then fast paced paddle through calm evening and find a total jackpot campsite as sun goes down and feel incredibly lucky. No reception, right to bed content!”
Day 76 September 7th Miles 17.2 Total 768.2 Granite Point-Salmon Trout Bay “Bit of sunshine for a beautiful morning then wind, rain and temperature drops rapidly for a much needed stop in Big Bay. Pull off too cold and wet and realize I am stuck for a while on a public beach. Pace and try to stay warm in rain as waves too big to launch comfortably roll in. Meet a whole crew of kind folks who assemble in a ma ter of minutes, load my full boat on a pickup bed and walk/shuttle a short distance to launch me from inside the breakwall! Amazing having so many kind strangers work together to get me back on the water with much love, hugs and support. Thank you again to John and Margaret Olesnavage, Sisters Esmerelde and their husbands Ted, Jeff and brother in law Randy and our truck driver Bill! Launch out of Bay into bigger waves and cliffs and sunset then I wanted to deal with, surf land on beach feeling beat!”
Day 77 September 8th Miles 28.8 Total 797.0 Salmon Trout Bay–West Side of Point Abbaye “Sunny and breezy! Dry wet gear in morning then hop into a great tailwind, pushes me past the Beautiful Huron Mountains, dicey crossing to Abbaye Peninsula and camp in an empty yard of someone’s summer cottage. Made really great miles today and excited to try for a big crossing in morning!”
Day 78 September 9th Miles 22.9 Total 819.9 West Side of Point Abbaye- Houghton “Weather perfect for an early morning 8mile solo crossing, biggest of the trip. Land in the Portage Canal of the Keweenaw Peninsula and meet John and Karen Bunker- folks visiting the area while visiting their son. They are very kind and generous in offering food, but I am in need of only miles to Houghton- to meet friends Matt and Hannah Abbotts. Matt was instrumental in helping me to plan this trip, as he and Hannah circumnavigated the Lake in 2009! So they know how to treat a wandering soul right- beer, amazing food by Chef Hannah and stories till late in the stormy night!”
Part 8: From Houghton, Mi- Completing the circumnavigation at Knife River on September 20th. The last ten days of really pushing hard to make it home for my mom’s 50th Birthday!
Day 79 September 10th Miles 10.0 Total 829.9 Houghton-North End of Portage Canal “While paddling away from my new friends was certainly no fun, I knew I would be back! Glad to have the safety the Portage Canal offered, made miles on a breezy morn, lunch before reaching the lake. Paddled to the end of the breakwall into Gusting headwind and my spirits dissipated, made camp and watched a beautiful sunset, got much needed sleep and decided- at the encourgament of Matt and Hannah, that I could really do it- I could make it home in ten days for my Mom’s 50th birthday! It would be hard, harder than I anticipated even then.”
Day 80 September 11th Miles 14.5 Total 844.4 North End of Portage Canal– Graveraet River “Up and at ‘em early but right into headwind. Four hours straight and only 9 miles made, pull off for lunch and again feel mentally and physically beat. Eat and watch the waves grow, spirits fade, spend couple hours journaling till that golden hour of the day where wind lessens a bit. Paddled hard right past sunset and set up camp near empty summer cottages. Big wind predicted for tomorrow, come what may.”
Day 81 September 12th Miles 0 Hard North Wind blows in deep loneliness. “Really hard day stuck again, so soon after I had decided I could make my mom’s birthday, see days pass with few or no miles. Stuck completely alone, not a single beach goer, no cell reception and feel emotionally threadbare by loneliness, harsh weather and daunting task of finishing I set for myself. Bolstered by knowledge that so many kind folks are thinking of me, sending me thoughts and prayers, but very hard to have family saying ‘just come home now, we will pick you up wherever you are.’ Incredible fall day of wind, crazy clouds and fiery sunset!”
Day 82 September 13th Miles 37.3 Total Graveraet River- Past Ontonagon “Up early, cold and sunny! Launch from river into calm day, trust myself and make sizeable crossing in perfect glass calm, quietest moments far out on calm water. Calm and sunny afternoon but flustered knowing I need to make up yesterdays miles. Pass Ontonagon around gorgeous burning sunset and paddle well after moon up. Land in cold, dark late evening and fall flat on my face after spending 12 hour and 19 minutes straight without ever touching land. Nickname kayak “leg coffin” and laugh it off. Feel good about Record miles today, quick call home and sleep hard near empty airstream on a starry moonlit night.”
Day 83 September 14th Miles 26.0 Total 907.7 Pine Creek-Porcupine Mountains Rustic Cabin Tiebel Creek “Up and out early, big headwinds predicted in afternoon, hope to make it well into the Porcupine Mountains before getting potentially pushed off the water. Exciting to paddle past landform I have seen in the distance last few days. Spirits high as headwind manageable, pull off and treat myself to only hot lunch of trip and feel great going back into it. Wind never gets as bad as expected, keep paddling till gray afternoon sun begins to set. Shoreline here generally poor for landing or making camp, aim to find a river mouth to paddle up then spot people. Means designated campsites, try to yell from kayak then land and ask to stay! Meet six awesome “milwakee dad’s” on their mancation! Great questions, decent beer and aweful Indian food around the campfire. Stay up too late having fun hanging out- Thanks again Mike, Mike, Harris, Jared, Bill and the ever so kind Nick!
Day 84 September 15th Miles 0 Wind bound with a sauna and beer “Woke to crappy weather and after leisurely breakfast, waves worsened significantly. Heart pounding just looking out at them, give in and stay. Thanks to the team for fixing my rudder and encouraging me to be safe before departing. AND for leaving me one very good oatmeal cream stout, and an unlocked sauna. One inspired me to fire up the other, got my Homebrew gift from Lane and Mike out and took turns sauna, swimming and doing yoga! Find wild blackberries and spot of cell service. Finally tell parents- I am having a hard time, need their encouragement to finish rather than return home now. Sunset retreat to my cozy sauna and sleep like a rock for my last night in Michigan!”
Day 85 September 16th Miles 37.6 Total 945.3 Porkies Cabin- Chequamegon Peninsula, Wisconsin “Great night sleeping in sauna, on water early to sun and calm water. Determined to make miles and receive really encouraging messages from my brothers and my mom! Spirits lifted, tailwind in late afternoon, 8miles crossing into Wisconsin and paddled till after sunset. Land by moonlight in river mouth after Record day of 37.6miles paddled! Quick call home, hot food and bed exhausted and accomplished on a beautiful night.”
Day 86 September 17th Miles 35.2 Total 980.5 Chequamegon Peninsula- Apostles Islands National Shoreline “Wake to sun and tailwind forecasted for all day, on water in good time and tooling! Feeling hopeful will make it home as pass Bayfield near lunchtime. Paddle near shore between Apostle Islands and Bayfield Peninsula for beautiful evening sunset and push till moonrise and luck out huge-land and discover designated campsite with tent pad, picnic table and bear box containing one bud light lime that others had left behind! Leave it for another to find, eat hot food and bed feeling guided, blessed and hopeful!”
Day 87 September 18th Miles 35.1 Total 1015 Apostles Islands National Shoreline – Brois Brule River Park “Wake to calm, gray morning, pack and leave lucky campsite tired but excited. Decide to make 10mile hop from camp to Bark point in perfect calm. Surreal. After 10mile, snack and-unbelievably-tail breeze materializes! Paddle hard and near shore for safety. Hit 1000 MILES and feel in disbelief. See old time fishing boats and hit new level of exhaustion in afternoon, count paddle strokes to 1,000 then repeat. Decide to land before sunset, in tent after dark. Quick message home and sleep restlessly as full moon tricks me into thinking sun is rising in the middle of the night. So close to my goal-MN tomorrow!”
Day 88 September 19th Miles 29.7 Total 1045.3 Brois Brule River Park –Duluth “Up to gray morning but not too windy. Surf launch rolls my kayak in 6inches of water, pump it out and on water in good time. Gray and very foggy, so stick close to shore till overhead thunder sends me to land. Sit out thunderstorm for an hour, try to sleep sitting on a rock! Back in boat to gray but calm enough weather and turn and head north, towards border. Very surreal crossing breakwalls into MN, paddle along beach to Duluth and feel like I have made it. Debate ending here, paddling under Lift bridge and checking into hotel. As sun sets feel relieved to have decided-I will finish where I started. Paddle well after dark in search of a park but camp on someone’s beach. Barely setup tent, know-tomorrow, I will go home. Can’t comprehend, need to stay focused till the end!”
Day 89 September 20th Miles 14.3 Total 1059.6 Reach KNIFE RIVER: COMPLETE THE LAKE “Alarm not necessary, awake several times and up at 5 in darkness complimented by Duluth city lights. In the boat by 6:30, just as sun comes up and lights of Duluth Lift Bridge turn off. Have 15miles to go to Knife River by 12, on the water with plenty of time as not to rush my last morning and to insure myself against bad weather. It is a blustery fall day, every shade of gray clouds moving quickly overhead and a blessed tailwind to carry me home. Feels surreal to look ahead at distant points and bays and know-I have already paddled those. Arrive early at the entrance to Knife River and nothing feels real. Feel relief, joy not unmixed with sadness and appreciation so far beyond words. Know that this trip wasn’t for me, feel like I will find the “reason” and as I spoke with a woman on the shore and said “can I just tell you something, I just finished the whole lake.” We hugged and I barely caught her name. She told me “you need to write a book! Even if you just share it with girl scouts, there are so many young women who need to hear your story!!” I decided, I think I will do that. And the rest will be history. I have never gone from one experience to “the next thing” so quickly, but it is the process I am only beginning now. One that intimidates me greatly. But I know if I take it one day at a time, accept the help and support of so many kind folks, and remember this isn’t just for me, I know I will make it back to the beginning again.
Day 80 September 11th Miles 14.5 Total 844.4 North End of Portage Canal– Graveraet River “Up and at ‘em early but right into headwind. Four hours straight and only 9 miles made, pull off for lunch and again feel mentally and physically beat. Eat and watch the waves grow, spirits fade, spend couple hours journaling till that golden hour of the day where wind lessens a bit. Paddled hard right past sunset and set up camp near empty summer cottages. Big wind predicted for tomorrow, come what may.”
Day 81 September 12th Miles 0 Hard North Wind blows in deep loneliness. “Really hard day stuck again, so soon after I had decided I could make my mom’s birthday, see days pass with few or no miles. Stuck completely alone, not a single beach goer, no cell reception and feel emotionally threadbare by loneliness, harsh weather and daunting task of finishing I set for myself. Bolstered by knowledge that so many kind folks are thinking of me, sending me thoughts and prayers, but very hard to have family saying ‘just come home now, we will pick you up wherever you are.’ Incredible fall day of wind, crazy clouds and fiery sunset!”
Day 82 September 13th Miles 37.3 Total Graveraet River- Past Ontonagon “Up early, cold and sunny! Launch from river into calm day, trust myself and make sizeable crossing in perfect glass calm, quietest moments far out on calm water. Calm and sunny afternoon but flustered knowing I need to make up yesterdays miles. Pass Ontonagon around gorgeous burning sunset and paddle well after moon up. Land in cold, dark late evening and fall flat on my face after spending 12 hour and 19 minutes straight without ever touching land. Nickname kayak “leg coffin” and laugh it off. Feel good about Record miles today, quick call home and sleep hard near empty airstream on a starry moonlit night.”
Day 83 September 14th Miles 26.0 Total 907.7 Pine Creek-Porcupine Mountains Rustic Cabin Tiebel Creek “Up and out early, big headwinds predicted in afternoon, hope to make it well into the Porcupine Mountains before getting potentially pushed off the water. Exciting to paddle past landform I have seen in the distance last few days. Spirits high as headwind manageable, pull off and treat myself to only hot lunch of trip and feel great going back into it. Wind never gets as bad as expected, keep paddling till gray afternoon sun begins to set. Shoreline here generally poor for landing or making camp, aim to find a river mouth to paddle up then spot people. Means designated campsites, try to yell from kayak then land and ask to stay! Meet six awesome “milwakee dad’s” on their mancation! Great questions, decent beer and aweful Indian food around the campfire. Stay up too late having fun hanging out- Thanks again Mike, Mike, Harris, Jared, Bill and the ever so kind Nick!
Day 84 September 15th Miles 0 Wind bound with a sauna and beer “Woke to crappy weather and after leisurely breakfast, waves worsened significantly. Heart pounding just looking out at them, give in and stay. Thanks to the team for fixing my rudder and encouraging me to be safe before departing. AND for leaving me one very good oatmeal cream stout, and an unlocked sauna. One inspired me to fire up the other, got my Homebrew gift from Lane and Mike out and took turns sauna, swimming and doing yoga! Find wild blackberries and spot of cell service. Finally tell parents- I am having a hard time, need their encouragement to finish rather than return home now. Sunset retreat to my cozy sauna and sleep like a rock for my last night in Michigan!”
Day 85 September 16th Miles 37.6 Total 945.3 Porkies Cabin- Chequamegon Peninsula, Wisconsin “Great night sleeping in sauna, on water early to sun and calm water. Determined to make miles and receive really encouraging messages from my brothers and my mom! Spirits lifted, tailwind in late afternoon, 8miles crossing into Wisconsin and paddled till after sunset. Land by moonlight in river mouth after Record day of 37.6miles paddled! Quick call home, hot food and bed exhausted and accomplished on a beautiful night.”
Day 86 September 17th Miles 35.2 Total 980.5 Chequamegon Peninsula- Apostles Islands National Shoreline “Wake to sun and tailwind forecasted for all day, on water in good time and tooling! Feeling hopeful will make it home as pass Bayfield near lunchtime. Paddle near shore between Apostle Islands and Bayfield Peninsula for beautiful evening sunset and push till moonrise and luck out huge-land and discover designated campsite with tent pad, picnic table and bear box containing one bud light lime that others had left behind! Leave it for another to find, eat hot food and bed feeling guided, blessed and hopeful!”
Day 87 September 18th Miles 35.1 Total 1015 Apostles Islands National Shoreline – Brois Brule River Park “Wake to calm, gray morning, pack and leave lucky campsite tired but excited. Decide to make 10mile hop from camp to Bark point in perfect calm. Surreal. After 10mile, snack and-unbelievably-tail breeze materializes! Paddle hard and near shore for safety. Hit 1000 MILES and feel in disbelief. See old time fishing boats and hit new level of exhaustion in afternoon, count paddle strokes to 1,000 then repeat. Decide to land before sunset, in tent after dark. Quick message home and sleep restlessly as full moon tricks me into thinking sun is rising in the middle of the night. So close to my goal-MN tomorrow!”
Day 88 September 19th Miles 29.7 Total 1045.3 Brois Brule River Park –Duluth “Up to gray morning but not too windy. Surf launch rolls my kayak in 6inches of water, pump it out and on water in good time. Gray and very foggy, so stick close to shore till overhead thunder sends me to land. Sit out thunderstorm for an hour, try to sleep sitting on a rock! Back in boat to gray but calm enough weather and turn and head north, towards border. Very surreal crossing breakwalls into MN, paddle along beach to Duluth and feel like I have made it. Debate ending here, paddling under Lift bridge and checking into hotel. As sun sets feel relieved to have decided-I will finish where I started. Paddle well after dark in search of a park but camp on someone’s beach. Barely setup tent, know-tomorrow, I will go home. Can’t comprehend, need to stay focused till the end!”
Day 89 September 20th Miles 14.3 Total 1059.6 Reach KNIFE RIVER: COMPLETE THE LAKE “Alarm not necessary, awake several times and up at 5 in darkness complimented by Duluth city lights. In the boat by 6:30, just as sun comes up and lights of Duluth Lift Bridge turn off. Have 15miles to go to Knife River by 12, on the water with plenty of time as not to rush my last morning and to insure myself against bad weather. It is a blustery fall day, every shade of gray clouds moving quickly overhead and a blessed tailwind to carry me home. Feels surreal to look ahead at distant points and bays and know-I have already paddled those. Arrive early at the entrance to Knife River and nothing feels real. Feel relief, joy not unmixed with sadness and appreciation so far beyond words. Know that this trip wasn’t for me, feel like I will find the “reason” and as I spoke with a woman on the shore and said “can I just tell you something, I just finished the whole lake.” We hugged and I barely caught her name. She told me “you need to write a book! Even if you just share it with girl scouts, there are so many young women who need to hear your story!!” I decided, I think I will do that. And the rest will be history. I have never gone from one experience to “the next thing” so quickly, but it is the process I am only beginning now. One that intimidates me greatly. But I know if I take it one day at a time, accept the help and support of so many kind folks, and remember this isn’t just for me, I know I will make it back to the beginning again.